I finished these pants today and I think these are going to be some of my favorites of the season.
The fabric is a tencel denim look, hard to get a good shot but they are soft and drapey.
I made a muslin and did a couple of my apparently standard pant adjustments. These include a one inch shorter front crotch length and about a half inch increase for a ‘full thigh’ adjustment. Thank you mother.
The fit is perfect although I missed the part that these pants should be ‘slouchy’ until too late, so next time I will do my same adjustments and go up one size.
I purchased the fabric last year from EmmaOneSocks. It is still available too. http://www.emmaonesock.com/fabrics/bottomweight.asp?lcd=139807. They also have it in a blue. I like EmmaOneSock because you can get up to 5 fabric samples for free. Some of the same fabric is available at fabric dot come for less money. Emma’s has very fast delivery but not cheap. They have different shipping options and your order does not automatically get the cheapest rate unless you check each option and they have about 5 different ones.
The directions for HotPatterns are not for beginners in my humble opinion. Although the pattern says it is for Advanced Beginners. These were not hard to make if you are experienced in front fly zipper placements. I have made so many jeans that I use the method I know. This time I tried to follow the zipper instructions and it said to stitch the zipper and fly shield from the top to the notch. I never did see a notch anywhere so I did my own thing.
I planned to make these pants totally on my serger and it turned out I made it almost totally on the Bernina 830.
These pants have a drawstring which is made partly of the fabric and it is attached to elastic. The pattern calls for one inch elastic but I will use 3/4″ next time as there was just barely enough room in the waistband for one inch elastic.
One of my favorite ways to attach a waistband is to serge the lower edge of the inside waistband. The line of stitching you see is where I stitched in the ditch on the other side. I could have stitched on the waist band but using one inch of elastic did not allow any stitching on the waistband.
To do a fly front zipper isn’t so hard. I like to do them, probably why I’ve made about 15 pairs of jeans.
The first thing to do is to make the ‘fly shield’, all you do is stitch the bottom. This one was just a rectangle so you fold in half and stitch the lower end, clip corner and turn. I always serge the raw edge. Always always always.
Baste the zipper upside down. Then put fly shield on top of this and stitch together.
This is the fly shield from the inside of the pants.
The left side is the fly shield. Now iron that right side so it looks nice. It can be top-stitched too. For these pants this is the left front.
For the fly facing, serge the curved edge. Then sew to right side, ride sides together. I stopped the stitching line at about 5/8″ from the bottom of fly facing.
Fold over and iron to the other side. Now both fronts can be stitched from the crotch to where you stopped stitching (the invisible notch).
This is where it looks tricky. You still only have one side of the zipper attached (to the left side). So put the right and left together like this:
This is what it looks like on the right side. I want it pinned closed just like it should look when finished. The other side looks like this: crazy huh?
You want to pin the fly shield(on the left) out of the way and hold the zipper where it lies on the fly facing. Don’t reposition them from where they were when lying flat or else it will mess everything up.
Stitch here twice about 1/8″ apart. Then unfold flat again. Here I take a marker or chalk and draw how I want the topstitching on the curved edge (fly facing), keeping the fly shield out of the way. For these pants I stitched a few stitches a half inch near the bottom curve and also near the bottom center to hold the fly shield in place.
The pockets were easy and topstitched around from the inside. I used the stitch length of 3.
Attaching the curved waistband was only tricky if each piece was not labeled. So make sure you use arrows and other markers that show which is right or left, up or down. Ask me why. 😏
Another thing for these pants! The button hole marks (for the drawstring) on the pattern piece are in the wrong spot. They need to be moved about 1 1/2 ” away from where it is. Otherwise you will have no place to put a buttonhole for the top of the zipper. I had to put a snap there because of that.
After the pockets were attached, the seams were stitched. For these pants I stitched on a regular machine at 5/8’s then serged each side of the seam and ironed. They lay very flat that way.
The pants have a 2 inch hem and also button tabs so that you can wear them cropped if you want.
These are very comfy and I can’t wait to make another pair. I have ordered some woven fabric, Oscar de la Renta linen viscose in Fog for my second pair from Mood Fabrics. http://www.moodfabrics.com/oscar-de-la-renta-fog-linen-viscose-woven-310271.html
Can’t wait for it to arrive!
I am quite happy with these pants!