Who can’t use another off-white summer top? Ok, maybe it’s just me, I never get enough of simple white tops.
I made this with bamboo lycra cream colored fabric. It was pretty slippery to work with. The edges also curled quite a bit. So I changed my original plan of making it mostly with my sewing machine and I used my fancy smanchy serger.
The alteration I made to the pattern was for slightly sloped shoulders. If you have shirts that do this:
You need a sloped shoulder adjustment. I thought I needed a FBA (full bust adjustment). So after a few attempts at a larger size, a FBA, a different FBA, I finally did enough research to find out what it was from.
There are different ways to fix it. I did Nancy Ziemans pivot and slide technique. But now I have found Linda Lee’s PDF that does basically the same thing and I think it’s easier.
Here is a link that shows several shoulder adjustments from Linda Lee with The Sewing Workshop. http://sewingworkshop.com/files/Fitting_Shoulders-April.pdf
View C is a good one. The method for the neck and shoulder is not the typical bindings that most knit shirts use. You use bands instead of binding. A different technique and the instructions are easy. Marcy Tilton is the designer and she usually gives directions for using a sewing machine. Marcy Tilton is one of my favorite designers and also sells fabric, very nice fabric. I found her at the Sew Expo in Puyallup, Washington and I have been buying her fabric ever since. She and her sister are from Oregon.
My fabric was cut and ready to go. Because the edges curled so much I decided to serge the sides, and hem with a narrow 3-thread overcast stitch.
I decided to use my BabyLock Ovation and stitch with the chain stitch. This fabric felt like it would get eaten up with a regular sewing machine.
The first seam is one shoulder seam with a 3/8″ top-stitch.
Now for the neck binding. I have stay-stitched the neck and armholes.
The binding was cut with a rotary blade and my quilting rulers because making it very precise with nicely trimmed edges is the best way for this shirt. The raw edge will show on the inside.
Sew the binding on with a 5/8″ seam, stretching it enough so that it lays nicely. Too much the shirt will bag, too little the binding will not lay nicely on the skin. This is a learned process and also can change depending on the stretch of the fabric.
After attaching the binding (right sides together), steam or iron it nicely so it looks good like this.(see that darn curly edge!)
If it looks good then sew the other shoulder seam along with the binding, matching that seam perfectly. Don’t forget to topstitch that seam like the other.
You need to trim the seam allowance to a perfect and precise 3/8″. The binding will fold over and cover the seam allowances.
Fold the binding to the inside,covering the 3/8″ seam allowance. Pin in the ditch on the right side.
I tried to sew with the chainstitch but I needed to use the sewing machine and my favorite foot. 10D to the rescue.
Sew as close to the ditch as possible. You shouldn’t see the seam when you are finished.
Attach the armhole binding the same as the neck unless you do it like me and then you need to sew the side seams with the chain stitch (matching the binding, which was already attached), then I decided to use the wide coverstitch on the side seams.
I love this look.
Finish stitching in the ditch with both armholes.
Next is the hem. This fabric was not nice. I used the wide coverstitch and in order to make it look nice I put a stabilizer underneath and that worked like a charm. (I ended up using scraps of my Swedish tracing paper).
I also stitched the vent with the wide coverstitch.
This photo also shows the stabilizer that is underneath as I start stitching the hem. Sometimes when starting to stitch a hem on knits, it has trouble starting (sewing tiny stitches before it grabs the fabric well) but using a stabilizer really helps those first stitches and the first stitches are exactly the size you wanted. In this case I stitched a length of 3.
That’s the end of this little shirt. I like it!! Questions? Just ask me!!